For those who live where winter means cold, snow and unworkable ground, garden catalogs are the tangible hope of the spring to come. While the earth slumbers under a blanket of snow, armchair gardeners are hard at work plotting their next crop.
But what value do these catalogs have for us, the year-round gardeners of southern California? Winter is one of our best seasons. We don’t need to curl up with a piece of paper to get our gardening fix. And why use paper? There’s an app for whatever we need to know.
I beg to differ. There is nothing more delicious than sitting down with a garden catalog, a pen and a cup of tea. It’s inspiring and satisfying and hopeful all at once.
Here are some of my favorite catalogs:

Annie’s Annuals & Perennials
(anniesannuals.com)
Located in northern California, it passes my litmus test for regionally appropriate plants. Look here for unusual and cottage garden flowers and vegetables that are colorful, sometimes drought-tolerant, and easy to grow.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
(rareseeds.com)
Want to avoid genetically modified seeds? This is a good place to start. The company offers 1,400 varieties of vegetables, fruits and herbs– the largest selection of heirloom varieties in the U.S. Founded in Missouri, they also have a store in Petaluma, California.

Botanical Interests
(botanicalinterests.com)
Quality seeds with detailed instructions, great growing tips and recipes. Many organics and heirlooms.

High Country Gardens
(highcountrygardens.com)
This catalog is absolutely bursting with ideas for low-water gardens. The problem is not what to order, but what NOT to order. A little pricey but very thought-provoking. If you’re struggling with what to do with your hellstrip– that little border between sidewalk and street– take a look here.

Johnny’s Selected Seeds
(johnnyseeds.com)
Johnny’s is located in Maine, so you know the growing conditions are a bit different from ours. I appreciate it for its wide range of products and concise, clear descriptions.

Nichols Garden Nursery
(nicholsgardennursery.com)
This nursery is owned by the Rosemary Marie Nichols McGee, coauthor of Bountiful Container– one of my favorite books. This Oregon-based nursery offers common and unusual seeds in small and large quantities. The catalog is available free online and for $1 (with a $2 credit on future orders) in paper.

Peaceful Valley
(groworganic.com)
Another California-based vendor, Peaceful Valley specializes in organic products. Great prices and selection.

Territorial Seed Company
(territorialseed.com)
Another Oregon-based company with non-treated seeds, Territorial offers an outstanding selection at great prices. Helpful, detailed planting information.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California and Edible Gardening for California.

It all boils down to coffee.
I love talking to other gardeners because I learn so much. In the past month, I’ve had the honor of discussing edible gardening with members of the Long Beach Gardening Club and the Lakewood Community Garden. Both are outstanding organizations with lively, interesting, knowledgeable members.
Three questions popped up related to the same unlikely subject– coffee.
When asked, Can I use coffee grounds on my plants?, I answered with my usual rap. Coffee is fine on acid-loving plants like azaleas, blue hydrangeas, camellias, gardenias and blueberries.
Well, at both meetings I was gently told that coffee (and coffee grounds) enhance everything! So I did some research, and here’s what I found:
Most experts say coffee grounds are wizards in the compost bin but should be used sparingly as a top dressing, and then only for acid-loving plants. Be careful using it on fruiting plants such as tomatoes. Coffee grounds add nitrogen– essential for leaves and green color– but may cannibalize soil’s phosphorous, which is necessary for flowering and, eventually, those ripe tomatoes.
If this is too much chemistry for you, as it is for me, I suggest sprinkling those used grounds sparingly and see what happens.
The next question: What type of worms is used in worm bins, and where can we get them? The answer is red worms, or red wiggler worms, and you can get them on Amazon. I am not kidding.
But what, you ask, does that have to do with coffee? Turns out that worms like coffee, too. When intrepid Washington master gardeners used up 270 pounds of coffee in their worm bins, they found that these happy wigglers produced high-quality compost– and lots of it. Worms can eat and expel their own weight every day. Use the grounds soon after brewing to avoid souring, which attracts fruit flies.
For more on composting and vermiposting (composting using worms), attend a free workshop. Stop by the LA County-sponsored event on Nov. 12 from 9:30am to 11am at Birney School, 710 W. Spring St. (ladpw.org). On Nov. 19, visit a Long Beach-hosted session at 2929 E. Willow St. from 10:30am to 12:30pm (longbeach-recycles.org). Discounted bins will be available.
The last question: My basil plant isn’t doing well; what can I do to help it flourish? Well, by now I bet you know the answer: Coffee. According to Organic Gardening magazine, spraying undiluted, cooled coffee on basil plants gives them a boost.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Edible Gardening for California.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California and Edible Gardening for California.

Ever find yourself using a tool that just felt so right for the job that it made you smile?
Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to present: the soaker hose.
Oh, it’s an unassuming piece of equipment. Just a length of rough, recycled rubber with a hose coupling on one end. But what it does for the garden is pure magic.
The ground gets pretty dry around here in mid-summer. The winter rain is a distant memory. The casual weekly sprinkles from the watering can or wand are barely enough to sustain life. But the long, slow seep from the soaker hose sinks deep, limbering up the dusty ground and improving the posture of thirsty, slumping plants.
I inherited my passion for oddball equipment from my mother, a wizard at transforming ho-hum surroundings with a piece of this, a little of that, and a lot of elbow grease. She liked our home not for its high ceilings, vintage tile or charming courtyard, but for its proximity to Long Beach Hardware on the corner of Spring and Long Beach Boulevard. Both Mom and the store are gone now, though they live on in every molybolt that holds a mirror to the wall or a curtain rod to the window.
But back to the soaker hose. Mom would have loved it for many reasons, including its frugality. A recent Los Angeles Times article heralded soaker hoses as “the poor man’s drip system.” Yes! Exactly! Why spend hundreds of dollars on irritating, expensive, complicated tubing?
Give me a $10 soaker hose any day. Covered with mulch, one stretches the length of my driveway year-round and keeps the day lilies, Silver Sheen pittosporum and ornamental grass in fine feather. Snaked through my raised-bed vegetable garden, it nourishes the tomatoes, peppers, strawberries and everything else with quiet efficiency. When I put in new plants and remove the old ones, it’s simple to realign the soaker hose.
I really sing the praises of the soaker hose in my drought-tolerant front yard. Keeping plants alive on the hellstrip between street and sidewalk required saint-like dedication until I started ministering to them with the soaker hose. Drought-tolerant plants are picky about water. Too much, they die. Too little, they die. Soaker hoses deliver water slowly, drawing the roots down and developing a sturdy support system.
You’ll find soaker hoses for $10 to $15 in lengths from 10 to 50 feet in big-box retailers and hardware stores. Let the new hose bask in the sun to increase flexibility. And you can bask a bit, too, because the soaker hose does the work!

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California and Edible Gardening for California.

When I came across “Drunken Woman Frizzy Headed” lettuce, I knew I had to find out the story behind that name.
That started me thinking about all the other weird and wacky names bestowed on heirloom vegetables, those older and sometimes historic varieties that gardeners have passed down through time.
One of the most famous is “Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter” tomato. The story goes that Charlie owned a radiator repair shop in West Virginia during the Depression (I mean the last depression—the one in the 1930s). He serviced heavy trucks that hauled coal and timber. Climbing those long, steep hills sometimes proved too much for the radiators. Fortunately, Charlie’s repair shop was nearby. Smart cookie Charlie located his shop at the bottom of a hill, and the disabled trucks coasted right to him.
But back to the tomato. In his spare time, Charlie gardened. One of his favorite tomatoes was “German Johnson,” a big beefsteak type. He crossed “German Johnson” with three other tomatoes until he created a high-performing plant that pumped out lots of huge, delicious one-pound tomatoes. Charlie sold those plants for $1 a piece– big money in those days. With the profit, he paid off his $6,000 mortgage.
Other heirlooms carry the name of the family or person who bred or discovered it. For example, there’s “Aker’s Plum” tomato from the—you guessed it—Aker family in Pennsylvania. Pretty straightforward. Others, not so much. Take the “Paul Robeson”– a dark, deeply flavorful Russian tomato named after an African-American opera star. Why in the world was some tomato breeder in the Ukraine thinking about—and most likely listening to—an American opera star? There’s a story in every name.
Some heirlooms, such as the “Cherokee Trail of Tears” bean, recall an historic event. In the winter of 1838, the U.S. Army forced the Cherokee people over the Smoky Mountains and relocated them in Oklahoma. Tucked into the packs of the weary travelers was a small symbol of hope, home and future: their favorite bean. Along the way, they buried 4,000 men, women, and children, and so the journey became known as the Trail of Tears.
Other names are simply charming. Who wouldn’t want to eat a “Moon and Stars” watermelon? The name describes the small yellow dots (stars) and crescents (moon) on the dark green firmament of the sturdy watermelon rind.
Unfortunately, the origins of “Drunken Woman Frizzy Headed” lettuce have so far escaped me. So I guess I’ll just have to make up my own story.

With Independence Day rapidly receding in the rear-view mirror, we’ve turned the corner on summer.
But don’t be sad. I have some good news.
You still have time for a second round of tomato planting!
With the warm days, warm nights and warm soil, it’s an even better time to plant than spring. Your plants will take off quickly and you’ll have plenty of time to toss those tasty flavor bombs into caprese, gazpacho, or a simple tomato-and-mayo sandwich.
Nearly all– 95 percent– of American gardeners plant at least one tomato. And it’s not hard to see why. Bred for shipping but not for flavor, the grocery store version is hard and tasteless. A homegrown tomato is so worth the effort. If you only grow one edible this year, make it a tomato.
But which one? Our area is perfect tomato-growing territory. We can choose from hundreds. My favorite is Sungold, a forgiving cherry type that keeps producing luscious, sweet fruit even when I forget to water it and don’t give it enough sun. Always grow a cherry tomato. It will make you happy after the bigger tomatoes let you down, falling victim to pests, disease or general malaise.
Other area favorites include taste-test winner “Carbon,” one of the darkest of the black tomatoes. This gets high marks for productivity overall but is currently sulking in my raised bed– not enough sun. Give big-fruited tomatoes like this at least eight hours of sun a day. Hybrid “Early Girl” may not sound as exciting as some of the heirlooms, yet it beat them in a blind taste. There are some tomato snobs who will only grow heirlooms. They’re missing out on some great taste!
“Green Zebra” has a snappy flavor with green-striped gold coloring. Mine succumbed to some type of creeping blight last year, but I enjoyed it while it lasted. If you’re lusting after a yellow tomato– absolutely gorgeous on a plate mixed with red tomatoes– try disease-resistant hybrid “Lemon Boy.” I grew one last year and was very happy with it. One of the most popular tomatoes in Japan, pink medium-size ‘Momotaro’ is taking California by storm with its balanced sweet/acid flavor. Mine is flourishing in a large pot, but I have yet to harvest any.
It’s a little late to start tomatoes from seed. For interesting tomato plants, try H&H Nursery in Lakewood and Armstrong Nursery in Long Beach.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California and Edible Gardening for California.

From late February through May, my garden enjoys a honeymoon period. The blooms are perky, the leaves are green and sturdy, and I convince myself that this is the year that I will have one of those always-beautiful self-sustaining gardens you read about in glossy magazines.
Well, the honeymoon is over. I found powdery mildew on my cosmos. Never mind that cosmos– a billowy, carefree wildflower– is supposed to be just that– carefree. But there it was, a white powdery substance clinging balefully to the stalks.
A fungal disease, powdery mildew plagues a wide variety of plants. Roses, zinnias, squash and cucumbers are particularly susceptible. Though it doesn’t kill, powdery mildew can disfigure by blocking sunlight needed for photosynthesis.
High humidity, overcast days, crowded conditions can bring it on. June Gloom is the perfect host.
The antidote? Simple. Mix one part skim milk to nine parts water. Shake and spray weekly until the mildew is gone. An enzyme in the milk (use 1% or 2%) combats the fungus. Whole milk will not work.
Then there are the suspicious spots on my tomato leaves. This is a Sungold, a usually trouble-free cherry that ranges happily upward bearing loads of delicious orange bite-size fruit. Generally, they grow like weeds.
But I noticed small black spots on the leaves. Though I am not an expert on tomato diseases– all of them look alike at some stage of development– my Googling and other research leads me to believe that this is Early Blight. Left unchecked, Early Blight can destroy the leaves and ruin the tomatoes. It creeps along, attacking the older leaves first.
Evidently, I’m not the only one. A friend who gardens on the other side of Long Beach brought me some spotted tomato leaves for diagnosis. They looked the same as mine, only worse.
So what should we do? I’m trying a product called Serenade Garden Disease Control, a spray-on bacterial control recommended by Pat Welsh, author of Southern California Organic Gardening. Though this is preventative rather than a cure, I’m still hopeful. Serenade is available at H&H Nursery in Lakewood and other retailers. The organic product has garnered many positive reviews and will not harm beneficial insects. Go, bees!
Plant diseases thrive on moisture. Fight back by watering the soil– not the leaves– early in the day so the sun can dry up any wayward drops.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California and Edible Gardening for California.

I was never all that fond of beets until I had trouble growing them in my little raised bed garden. Then I wanted them passionately.
I tried seeds. Nice, big, easy-to-handle seeds, properly spaced and watered. The green tops came up perkily enough and then stopped at four inches. When I finally plucked them, there was no beet below. I tried transplants. Same story.
Could it be lack of sun? I stuck seeds in a pot and put it in full sun. And now I have beets…plus plans to put a raised bed in that sunny spot.
When growing vegetables, don’t underestimate the power of the sun. Heat-lovers such as tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers and zucchini need at least six hours of full sun– preferably more.
But there are a few ways to cheat. Planted next to a white wall, vegetables bask in extra reflected heat and radiance and can get by with less direct sun. And then there are some tomatoes– Stupice, Oregon Spring, Siletz, Black Plum, and almost any tomato with a Russian name– that will bear fruit in lower light conditions. Not shade, mind you, but a little less than six hours of direct sun.
Got partial shade? Grow leafy vegetables and some herbs. Lettuce, Swiss chard, kale, collards, Asian greens like bok choy, plus parsley and mint will all manage in dappled sun.
If you’re confused by terms like “dappled” or “partial” sun/shade, you’re not alone. To find out just how much sun you’re getting, consider a SunCalc. Stick this little device in the ground, and it tells you if you’ve got full or partial sun or full or partial shade. You’ll find it on suncalc.net and amazon.com.
The Wrigley Garden brought food and community to a formerly blighted area of Long Beach (1950 and 1960 Henderson Avenue) but must now make way for a Habitat for Humanity building project. Help garden director Sasha Kanno tidy up on Fridays and Saturdays from 9am to noon June 3 to June 18.
Wondering about that cute little structure near the intersection of Spring Street and Long Beach Boulevard? It’s a convenient little farmers market in the heart of the city! The Spring Street Produce Stand actually sits on Elm about a block east of Long Beach Boulevard. Open Tuesday to Friday afternoons from noon to 7pm and Saturdays from 9am to 3pm, it’s brimming with mouthwatering strawberries and an abundance of fresh, affordable vegetables. It’s part of the Green Jobs Program sponsored by Long Beach Community Action Partnership (LBCAP).

Sunday is my favorite day in the garden. Okay, some weeks it’s my only day in the garden. After a quick look at the paper, I put the world’s problems behind me and set out for the front yard.
Until last fall, I had always gardened in the back or along the driveway. It was solitary, contemplative, a little Zen, very enjoyable.
Then I dug up the front lawn, tossed the grass and went drought tolerant– and public. Now my gardening successes and failures– and my gardening outfit, complete with holey rubber boots– are out there for all to see.
And it’s a blast.
I’ve made some great new friends. Since I’m usually at ground level– crouching, kneeling or sitting– I’ve forged nose-to-nose relationships with neighbors like Sparky the Wonder Dog. Cats are another story. Who knew cats were naturally attracted to ornamental grass? Mexican feather grass works as bed or camouflage, according to Snap and Crackle, my feline gardening companions.
There are some outstanding humans, too: my perennially cheerful neighbor Art, waving from across the street as he tackles his own front-yard projects; Patrick, an architect who lives next door, patiently crafting a drought-tolerant landscape that will certainly be a showstopper; and down-the-street neighbor Selene, who kindly brought me a jar of the most awesome honey after we talked a bit about the Long Beach Lawn-to-Garden program. Seems her husband is a local beekeeper.
I discover something new every time I go out. For example, poppies are amazing multi-purpose plants. They make people happy, fill in gaps, grow without effort and make the whole yard glow with light. I’ve learned that even though we’re several miles from the ocean, we still get an ongoing sea breeze that bends everything from trees to fescue toward the north. And I’ve learned that the plants I put in what I thought was a sorta sunny area will not survive in what is actually shade. Oops.
Thinking about growing a garden you can eat? Come to my book-signing party for Edible Gardening for California on Saturday, May 14 at 2pm at Gatsby Books, 5535 E. Spring St. We’ll talk about how to fill your salad bowl year-round, how to mix flowers and edibles together, and lots more. See you there.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California and Edible Gardening for California.

Every gardener is getting itchy to go out and play. Following are a few tips and tricks to help you welcome spring and get more out of your garden all year.

How to plant a tomato: Pop it out of the little nursery container and plant as deep as possible. Under the soil, the tomato will send out roots all along the stem, improving strength and vigor. I know, you hate to bury all those lovely tomato leaves. Do it anyway and pat yourself on the back when you get a great crop. Above ground, trim off any leaves that touch the soil. This discourages disease.

How to orient your garden: Place tall plants on the north side so they don’t cast shadows and hamper the growth of their neighbors. Sun shines from a southern angle.

Know your plant’s habit: In plant lingo, habit describes a characteristic mode of growth. Does it stand up straight? Will it spread? Will it spill over the side? If you’re lucky, you’ll find this information on the plastic plant tag. Keep in mind that one plant variety can have many different habits. Take the African daisy– it’s tall, it’s short, it mounds, it cascades….make sure you pick the right variety for your landscape.

When to water drought-tolerant plants: Individual species vary as to water needs, but as a general rule of thumb, give these plants regular water for their first year in the ground. Don’t skimp! By that time, they should be established with sturdy root systems that will help them retain water.

How to choose a nursery plant: Don’t be seduced by those perky flowers or itty-bitty tomatoes. What you really want is a sturdy plant that will put energy into growing a healthy root system. Pick the plant with closed buds. You’ll be happy later.

What to do with those empty nursery pots: Take them to Lowe’s for recycling.

Best vegetables to plant now: Lettuce, beans, peas, radishes, Swiss chard, turnip.

Best vegetables to plant in April/May: Tomatoes, beets, corn, cucumber, melon, pepper, eggplant.

Best instant garden: Get a big pot– 20 inches or more. Make sure it has drainage. Place it in the sun. Throw in a bag of potting soil. Throw in your favorites. Water. Voila!

Best plants to attract pollinators: Borage, lavender, marigolds, rosemary, zinnia. Mix them into your vegetable garden or place them in pots nearby.

Jennifer E. Beaver, a Wrigley resident, is a master gardener and author of Container Gardening for California.